The city of Prague is home to many cemeteries. Although I was unable to find exact numbers, there seem to be at least a dozen cemeteries through the city and its outskirts. I’ve read in a few places that there are actually upwards of 30 within the city limits!
However, we have not yet been to most of these. So this article will focus on what we understand to be three of Prague’s most significant cemeteries: Vyšehrad, Olšany and the Old Jewish Cemetery.
But never fear; as we visit more, you may just find us adding to this list in the future. For example, the Bohnicky Cemetery of Fools is pretty high on my list. Especially since I’ve heard rumours it’s adjacent to a pet cemetery!
Like many European countries, cemeteries are important within Czech culture as a way to honour and remember the dead. When we visited Olšany Cemetery, we found many Czechs visiting and tending to the graves of their loved ones. The Czech Republic, like many of the Eastern European countries, celebrates All Saints Day (November 2) by honouring the dead.
Wait, what’s All Saint’s Day again?
For those who are unfamiliar, All Saint’s Day is a Christian holiday to honour all the saints, both known and unknown. It is celebrated – depending on location – on November 1st or 2nd, or rarely on October 31st. And yes, you’ve guessed it, it shares its origins with the likes of Halloween and Day of the Dead.
Despite this connection, it tends to be a strictly religious holiday spent in the church for much of Western Europe and America (and I’m sure other spots I’m less familiar with). At least, that is my understanding based on my very limited knowledge of Christian religious practices.
On the Contrary, for many Eastern Europeans, All Saints Day is about celebrating all of the dead (after all, you never know who’s a saint, right?). For Czechs, this means heading en mass to cemeteries to light candles, say prayers and tell stories about lost loved ones. Although nowhere near as celebratory as Mexico’s Day of the Dead, this is far more akin to the Mexican tradition than it is to anything we have in American or British traditions.
Cool, so about those Prague cemeteries…
Right. As I said, Prague has a lot of cemeteries.
But, for the time being, let me introduce you to three of the city’s most important cemeteries.
The Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague’s Jewish Quarter
There are two other ‘Old Jewish’ cemeteries in Prague. The biggest is in the Žižkov neighbourhood, which was established in the 17th century largely for plague victims. The second is in Radlice in the Smíchov area, and it was established in 1788 due to overcrowding. It is often referred to as the Old Radlice Cemetery. Perhaps one day, they will have their own entry on this list!
I’m starting with this one because a) it’s alphabetical, but also because b) it’s the oldest and (surprise) this list is not only alphabetical but chronological (massive geek alert!), and c) it is the most touristy so I’ll get it out of the way, as it were.
First opened in the early 15th century, this is the oldest Jewish cemetery in Prague that is still visible. There was an older cemetery called the Jewish Garden. Not much is known about the Jewish Garden, but we know it was located in what is today New Town Prague. Sadly, the cemetery was closed in 1478 by King Vladislaus II due to grievances made by the residents at the time. Over time, it fell into disrepair and was swallowed up by the streets of New Town. I do mean that literally; it is underneath them somewhere.
It’s very cool how much of Europe is built on top of itself!
The exact opening date for the Old Jewish Cemetery is unknown. Although the oldest gravestone is dated 1439, the cemetery is built on layers and it is believed that up to 100,000 people were buried beneath the 12,000 still visible gravestones. The last burial took place in 1787 because, three years prior, Emperor Josef II banned burials within city limits for hygienic reasons. Until Josef II’s decree, this was the only Jewish burial site in the city as members of the Jewish population were not permitted to be buried outside of their designated ghetto. This likely explains the multiple burial layers as there was only so much space.
One of the reasons this particular Jewish cemetery is so significant is because it is one of – if not the – oldest in Europe. Since its specific establishment date is unknown due to all the bodies buried below, it could well pre-date the Jewish Cemetery in Worms, whose oldest gravestone dates to 1058/9. Also, the mere fact that there are layers is pretty unique.
The cemetery is beautiful but it is busy! We didn’t go during this trip (I visited previously) because there was a line out the door to get in! Try visiting in off season, or getting there first thing if visiting Prague during peak season.
If you do visit, see if you can find the grave of one the cemetery’s most notable residents: Judah Loew ben Bezalel, the rabbi responsible for creating the legendary Golem of Prague.
Location: Široká, 110 00 Josefov, Praha 1
Opening Hours: November – March, Sunday – Friday: 09.00 – 16.30; April – October, Sunday – Friday: 09.00 – 18.00 (closed Saturdays and on Jewish holidays)
Cost: Included in the cost of the Prague Jewish Museum (350 Kč, approximately €13.8); it costs 50 Kč (≈ €2) for photos.
Olšany Cemetery
Next up, we’ve got the oldest – and largest – public cemetery in Prague, Olšany Cemetery. As previously stated, it is also the only one of the three still currently in use. Many Czechs come to visit and pay their respects on a regular basis.
The Olšany Cemetery is rather sizable. Originally opened in 1680 to house the ever increasing number of plague victims, the Olšany of today is actually a series of 12 cemeteries. Each one has a different purpose. There is a Christian Orthodox section, a very tiny Muslim section, the largest Jewish cemetery in the Czech Republic, a Soviet cemetery, and a military burial section where 187 soldiers and two generals of the Red Army are buried in a mass grave.
There are also many notable Czechs buried throughout. Literature buffs can try to find Franz Kafka, who is buried in the Jewish cemetery at Olšany.
Those familiar with the darker history of Prague, may recognise the grave of Jan Palach. Jan Palach was a young Czech hero who set himself on fire in Wenceslas square on 16 January 1969 in protest. Without going into a whole history lesson, Palach was essentially protesting Soviet control in Czechoslovakia and a lack of freedom of speech following a brief period of liberalisation within the country called the Prague Spring. Palach was the first Czech to immolate himself for the cause, though he would not be the last.
Although exact figures are unknown, many historians estimate that up to two million people are buried within Olšany. There is evidence of at least 230,000 burials.
We spent several hours walking around and still didn’t see the entire thing. There are some magnificently intricate crypts and gravestones, and we just wanted to soak it all in.
Olšany is great if you want a quiet afternoon/morning off the beaten path.
Location: Vinohradská 1835/153, 130 00, Praha 3
Opening Hours: November – February: 8:00 – 17:00; March – April, October: 8:00 – 18:00; May – September: 8:00 – 19:00
Cost: Free! (You can also pick up a map at the desk, although I’m not sure if this costs anything)
Olšany Cemetery and Prague’s Only Vampire Myth
A quick fun fact about Olšany cemetery: it is home to Prague’s only enduring local vampire myth. Although modern-day media often places Prague as an epicenter for gothic horror in which otherworldly creatures such as vampires abound… Prague’s lore on the matter is actually shockingly thin. There were supposedly some potential vampire graves discovered in the outskirts of the city, but no one knows the origin behind them, or even who the occupants are meant to be.
Aside from that mystery, one sole vampire story exists in Prague, that of Upír Dopiječ, who resides in Olšany cemetery. And it turns out, he’s kind of pathetic. Legend says that he’s so shy he won’t even attack passersby or mourners. Instead, he waits for them to trip and scrape their knee, at which point he will jump in and essentially lick your knee before running off. Did I mention his nickname is Bloody Knee?
Vyšehrad Cemetery
We first mentioned Vyšehrad Cemetery in our alternative Prague itinerary suggestions. It is attached to the Vyšehrad complex, which additionally houses a fort, a basilica, and an underground cellar. The cemetery, however, is the newest fixture at Vyšehrad, having been established in 1869.
Not a lot of information is available on the cemetery. For example, I wasn’t even able to find a clear number for how many people are buried at Vyšehrad. Nevertheless, it is well known largely due to the many Czech cultural figures buried there. Most are buried within a pantheon called Slavin.
People buried here that non-Czechs are most likely to recognise include Jaroslav Heyrovský, Antonín Dvořák, Alphonse Mucha, and Karel Čapek. However, several dozen more call Vyšehrad cemetery their final resting place.
Although rumour has it that one final space is free within Slavin, Vyšehrad is a closed cemetery, and it is unlikely the space will ever be filled.
While here, be sure to check out the rest of the complex, some of which dates back to the 10th century. Vyšehrad originally housed a castle. It was demolished in during the 1400s amidst the Hussite Wars, nevertheless the remaining fort, basilica, and of course cemetery are historically significant.
Location: K Rotundě, Vyšehrad, Praha 2
Opening Hours: November – February: 8:00 – 17:00; March – April, October: 8:00 – 18:00; May – September: 8:00 – 19:00 (different hours for the other sites in the complex)
Cost: Free! (if visiting the rest of the Vyšehrad complex, the costs are different. Check here for costs to Vyšehrad’s exhibitions and here for information on the basilica costs and services if interested in attending)
Bonus: The Heydrich Terror Memorial
So this isn’t exactly a cemetery, but it is an incredibly important burial crypt to the Czech people.
In May 1942, a Czech resistance group attempted to assassinate SS officer Reinhard Heydrich. This was known as Operation Anthropoid.
Although initially Heydrich did not die, he later succumbed to his injuries. Hitler was furious and went on a murderous rampage. Thousands of Czech citizens were rounded up, questioned and incarcerated. The Czech towns of Lidice and Ležáky were razed to the ground.
Seven of the men responsible were kept hidden at the Cathedral of Saints Cyril and Methodius. However, they were eventually turned in by one of their co-conspirators: Karel Čurda.
The cathedral was stormed by SS officers and all seven men were either murdered, or died by cyanide capsule.
Check out our article about the Heydrich Terror Memorial for the full story and the motivations behind why Operation Anthropoid was carried out and why Karel Čurda betrayed them. Read our account of visiting Lidice, one of the most haunting dark tourism sites we have ever visited.
If you’re looking for more dark inspiration during your stay in Prague, check out our ultimate spooky guide to Prague!
Have you been to any of these cemeteries? Did a vampire lick your wounded knee? Are there any other cemeteries that had a profound impression on you? Let us know in the comments below!
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