Croatians take their coffee culture very seriously. Learn the rules, respect the coffee, enjoy the cafes.
“Where are you going?” I squint up at Jeremy’s 6 foot frame shrouded in sunlight. We literally just finished our drinks at one of our favourite Zagreb cafes. His coffee cup is still warm. Our friend Luka and I are sitting cozily in our wicker chairs. For some reason, Jeremy is hastily piling all of our day’s belongings back into his backpack.
“We paid.”
“So…?”
“We have to go.”
“Why?”
He looks unsure. “Because… there are other patrons?”
I say nothing. I look around at the empty seats. “Really?”
Jeremy sits back down. “But won’t they get annoyed if we stay?”
“No.”
“Do we need to buy something else?”
“Can do if you want.”
Jeremy looks flustered, which I find amusing. He is fighting every natural instinct not to leave immediately.
“Sit down!” Luka now barks at Jeremy who has stood up again. Jeremy obeys immediately. He looks around uneasily.
“Relax, dude.” Luka says, signaling a waiter. “We could stay all day and no one would care.”
Assured by Luka, the local expert, Jeremy tries to relax.
Sitting still
Jeremy doesn’t like to sit still. I like to chill out. Although he is naturally quite fidgety, it’s not entirely his fault. Jeremy is British, and the Brits don’t really have a “coffee culture” the way that a lot of Europe does, particularly Eastern Europe. Or, for that matter, the Middle East, where I spent much of my life. Since we’re in Zagreb for 10 days, I decide this is the perfect time to discover all the best cafes and teach Jeremy how to relax through coffee culture. And I recruited a local friend to help!
When Luka moved back to Zagreb after several years in the UK, followed by a year in India, we jumped at the chance to visit him. I have long been fascinated by the Balkans, especially after a road-trip from the UK to Montenegro in 2011. But despite some time spent in Croatia, I never went to Zagreb, the nation’s capital city. And, wherever possible, I like to go where my friends live as you get to see a totally different side of a city (and you get to see them!). But ultimately Jeremy chose Zagreb as his 31st birthday destination.
I immediately cautioned, “You know we’ll just be… hanging out a lot, right?”
He did not.
Adjustments
Despite his initial reluctance, Jeremy soon adjusted. But Zagreb will do that to a person. The whole vibe of the city feels very relaxed. You don’t come to Zagreb to be stressed. It’s just not their bag. The owner of our favourite restaurant, The Curry Bowl told us he used to work in the corporate world, but fell in love with Croatia during his business trips. He said he felt much happier in the laid back atmosphere of Zagreb and out of the rat race.
We visited Zagreb in July, but despite the oppressive Mediterranean heat, no matter what day we went out, or at what time, the cafes would be full of patrons. Of course, the need for these places is so high, you can all but guarantee you will find seating somewhere. Outside seating lined every street we walked down, providing more than ample options. The options range from old plastic chairs to giant wicker thrones that swallow you whole. We found most to be somewhere in between.
(It should be noted that I hate coffee. Instead, I ordered coca cola with sparkling water for extra carbonation. If you like fizz as much as I do, I highly recommend it! Anyway, wherever it says we drank coffee, assume only Jeremy drank actual coffee.)
A Typical Day
Jeremy and I easily settled into the rhythm of the city. Each morning, we got up around 9 and ambled into the city centre to get coffee and some breakfast. Over coffee we discussed our options for the day. Visit a museum? Go for a walk? Hang out here all day?
Because we never decided what to do ahead of time, there was actually something oddly freeing about being so relaxed. The beauty of embracing Croatia’s coffee culture was that it allowed us time to discuss and plot. It also got us out of the house, even if ultimately we didn’t leave the cafe for several hours.
We would often opt for a museum or two in the morning, then grab a lunch – or potentially more coffee. By this point, we were often covered in sweat and feeling very relaxed from the coffee vibe, so we either took an afternoon nap, or read for a bit at home. In the late afternoons, we meandered through the old city, looking at street art and the old architecture.
In the evenings we met up with Luka for dinner and more coffee hangouts before heading back to our apartment for a post caffeine crash.
Key facts to know about Croatian coffee culture
If you plan on living or working remotely in Zagreb you’ll definitely find yourself spending a lot of time at the cafes. That means there are a few things you need to know about Croatia’s coffee culture!
1. It takes forever. Getting a coffee with a Croatian is not a quick affair. Don’t expect to swing by and make a quick getaway. It will take hours, and you are expected to stay for a good chunk of time.
2. Everyone thinks their way is the best way. Everyone in Croatia believes that their preferences should be the norm. From how to take their coffee to what cafe is best, every Croatian is sure of their opinion.
3. You judge people by how they drink their coffee. Since everyone’s way is the best way, everyone judges you by the decisions you make about coffee. Even if you are a foreigner.
4. Only milk and sugar should be added. If you prefer black coffee, stick with it. Otherwise, the only acceptable addition to a coffee is milk or sugar. Adding flavoured syrups like vanilla or caramel, for example, is unacceptable.
5. Ice coffee is fine. When the summer sun is boiling hot, no one will begrudge you for having that latte on ice… But same rules apply as hot coffee: only additions permitted are milk and sugar.
6. Life happens over coffee. Coffee is the most social activity in Croatia, and an integral part of everyday life. As such, over coffee is where everything happens: interviews, reunions, big announcements. If you miss a coffee date with a group of friends or work colleagues, you could be weeks behind on the gossip or updates.
7. You can’t drink alone. Drinking alone – coffee or otherwise – is considered bad form, and completely defeats the point of going out for coffee: to socialise. If you want to be by yourself when drinking coffee, this should be done at home, not out at a cafe.
8. Having coffee doesn’t necessarily mean coffee. So you don’t drink coffee? Or just don’t fancy it? Not a problem. “Let’s get a coffee” merely means invitation to hang out and socialise. If you’d rather drink a beer or soda, go for it. Just make sure you order something, even if it’s just a water.
9. Coffee should be the cheapest thing on a menu. If you’re ever in a cafe or restaurant in Croatia and coffee isn’t the cheapest thing available, you might want to leave. In the same vein, if coffee is too expensive even whilst being the cheapest drink available, this can ruffle feathers and be considered unacceptable.
10. Turkish coffee when in, Italian when out. When at home, most Croatians drink Turkish coffee. This is also what they serve guests who visit at home. Some Croatian’s will drink instant coffee at home – those who don’t, consider this blasphemous (when Jeremy once made instant coffee in front of Luka back in Britain, Luka nearly spat at him, and left the kitchen in disgust). However, whenever out a cafe, the most common type of coffee ordered is Italian, in particular espresso.
11. Coffee culture is the reason that smoking is still legal in Croatia. When the rest of Europe banned smoking indoors, Croatia tried to do so, as well. However, smoking while drinking coffee is so ingrained into the culture that people refused to stop. Both restaurants and individuals were being fined for disregarding the law. For many people, these fines could be as much as half their paycheck. But this didn’t deter the Croatians, who just kept right on smoking, and paying the fines for doing so. As a result, the government reversed the ban, and nowadays you’ll be hard pressed to find a cafe that doesn’t allow smoking. Smoking is less common inside restaurants, but not unheard of, and most people sitting outside will smoke.
12. Vaping is unacceptable. Smoking may be the norm, but vaping is not tolerated amongst friends.
13. Croatians believe access to coffee is a right, not a privilege. During the war, and after, there were coffee shortages, and the Croatians have never forgotten it. Because of this, most people believe that coffee should be accessible for everyone, much like food and water.
14. Croatians will always make time for coffee. If someone doesn’t have time in life to go out for a coffee and see friends, then they are considered to not have their priorities straight. Coffee culture trumps pretty much all other social responsibilities.
15. Never try to split the bill. Don’t bother arguing over who pays what. If a Croatian says they will pay, it’s not worth disagreeing. Instead, consider that you’ll get it next time… maybe. This reciprocity could go on for a lifetime with no one ever actually sure who’s turn it is, or who “owes” what.
Our Favourite Zagreb Cafes
No matter where you stay in Zagreb, there’s sure to be a plethora of great Zagreb cafes nearby. And the truth is that you can experience and enjoy coffee culture in any one of the cafes in Zagreb (or Croatia, for that matter). But since we know people love a good suggestion, here are some of ours. Since we spend a lot of time in Zagreb, we’ll add more as we discover them!
Mr. Fogg – Mr. Fogg is probably our favourite cafe in Zagreb. The aesthetic is ‘steampunk submarine’ and it tends to be dark and smokey. Yes, it’s super hipster, but that’s part of its charm. Plus, in Croatia that’s less of a thing. As a non-coffee drinker, I also love their variety of coffee-free options, which is undoubtedly more than most Zagreb cafes. In particular, I love the spicy ginger beer they sell! But, you absolutely must order a tea at least once because the ensemble is so incredibly extra.
Booksa – Across the street from Mr. Fogg, Booksa is definitely one of the best cafes in Zagreb if you want to get some work done. You need to have a membership to drink/work here (I can’t remember how much, but it’s inexpensive), which is technically a donation. It’s normally pretty quiet here, so if you plan on working or reading it’s perfect, but you might not be everyone’s favourite if you show up and chat. Supposedly Booksa is smoke-free (pretty much the only cafe in Zagreb I now of that is), but someone was smoking one of the times we visited, so not sure how strict that rule is.
Quahwa – I have been assured that Quahwa serves some of the best coffee in Zagreb. Jeremy seems to agree with the sentiment, and my coffee-free drink was definitely tasty. What I can confirm is that Quahwa has a great atmosphere, and is a great cafe for trying to absorb some of Croatia’s coffee culture.
The Archaeological Museum Cafe – If you like a touch of history with your coffee culture, then The Archaeological Museum Cafe is probably the Zagreb cafe for you. On a sunny day, enjoy a drink in the garden amongst Roman busts. It’s not even outrageously expensive.
A Most Unusual Garden – While it’s technically a gin garden, plenty of locals still come here to drink coffee and relax. And it certainly lives up to its name as one of the most unusual cafes in Zagreb. This place is great if you have a mixed crowd of alcohol and coffee drinkers.
Palainovka Cafe – Located just around the corner from the Zagreb City Museum, Palainovka Cafe is popular with locals and tourists alike. Most Zagreb cafes have outdoor and indoor seating, and this one is no different. However, in addition to these, the Palainovka Cafe also has a section that is outside, but inside a glassed-in area so you get the best of both worlds (if you want it – personally I love the interior decor).
Cat Caffe – This one is a bit of a cheat, because we just discovered it exists (how did we miss this?!), but since we love cat cafes we can’t not include it. However, as we haven’t been [yet], we can’t say with certainty this one is totally okay, so please let us know if this isn’t the case.
LOOKING FOR MORE THINGS TO DO IN ZAGREB?
– Zagreb Museums and Memorials for Dark Tourists
– Brestovac Sanatorium: An Abandoned Labour of Love
Have you had coffee with a Croatian? What do you think of Croatia’s coffee culture? Is there a coffee culture where you live? Let us know in the comments below!
